Restaurant review: Meadesmoore takes steakhouses to the future with uncommon steak cuts

Innovation has kicked the door wide open to the next generation of steakhouses in Singapore is Meadesmoore’s line-up of unusual, mouth-watering beef cuts.

The steaks lead an ensemble of numerous culinary delights, and play in harmony to excite palates while simultaneously offering a deeper understanding to what we eat.

Helmed by Executive Chef Victor Loy, Meadesmoore – previously known as Fat Belly Social Steakhouse – is a modern steakhouse specialising in unusual beef cuts sourced from award-winning producers in Australia, Spain, and the United States. Each cut provides a unique dining experience depending on the type of cattle, as well as how it was prepared.

Hidden along an unassuming street in Telok Ayer, up the narrow stairs of a two-storey shophouse, is a quiet oasis within the bustle of the CBD. A contemporary industrial space with pops of dark teal velvet and leather seating, Meadesmoore sets the mood for a sophisticated and indulgent steakhouse feast.

Large format sharing steaks take centre stage here.

The highlight of any steakhouse is the Côte de Boeuf (aka the Prime Rib). A cut lauded for its beautiful marbling and cap of fat, the muscles in this part of the cow are not often used, yielding in Meadesmoore’s prized Galician Vintage MS 2/3 Prime Rib ($280).

A full, hefty kilogram, it comes from free-range dairy cows that are at least 60 months old and is dry aged for 30 days, thus developing richer and deeper flavour.

Chef Loy extracts the natural flavours of all steaks with a charcoal grill before accentuating them with coarse sea salt and two sauces.

The sauces are made from scratch too; flavours include familiar ones like salsa verde, Bordelaise and peppercorn, to more uncommon options like briny scampi butter and choron sauce, a classic French steakhouse sauce featuring onion tarragon and white wine reduction.

Other cuts to consider include the leaner, beefier Full Blood Wagyu MS 7/8 Flat Iron ($138), which is also widely considered the second most tender cut after the Fillet Mignon. And we know this courtesy of the folks at Meadsmoore, who tell us that American researchers found a way to extract the connective tissue that ran through the chuck or shoulder of the cow in 2002.

For an exquisite meat-to-fat ratio, go for the rare Black Opal F1 Wagyu FI MS 6/7 Zabuton ($148) – each head of cattle only yields three to four kilograms!

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Steaks aside, you’ll want to jazz up your meal with an array of tantalising sides such as the Bone Marrow ($32), featuring smoked Hokkigai clams and fried garlic gremolata. Served with slices of sourdough bread, the complementary crunch to the bone marrow is delicious.

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 The Spicy Crispy Pig’s Ear ($17) is also a must-have, where strips of pig’s ear tossed in seasoned flour and deep fried, before being dressed with gochugaru spices for an addictive sweet and spicy flavour.

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Meadesmoore’s signature Gratinated Mac & Cheese ($18) is comfort food on steroids. Swopping macaroni for casarecce to better soak up its rich sauce (without burning your tongue, too), expect an explosion of flavour with white wine and the four cheeses used (bleu, Grana Padano, mozzarella, and a seasonal variety). Artfully balancing sharp and creamy flavours, the inspired dish serves a satisfying crunch with a layer of breadcrumbs and fresh truffle.

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No feast is complete without dessert, and chocolate lovers, make a beeline for the aptly-named Chocolate, Chocolate & Chocolate ($16). Think whiskey-infused chocolate sorbet with ganache, custard, crumble, and tuile for delightful layers of textures while not being overly sweet.

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For those who enjoy fruity sweet treats, Meadesmoore’s take on the classic Eton Mess ($16) will take you to the season’s freshest. This quarter, tuck into rose and raspberry marbled Chantilly cream, meringue kisses, and fresh raspberry and lychee served in a martini glass.

Meadesmoore is located at 21A Boon Tat St, Singapore 069620, +65 6227 2247. Open Monday to Wednesday, 11.30am to 3pm and 5.30pm to 10pm, Thursday to Friday 11.30am to 3pm & 5.30pm to 11pm, Sat 5.30pm to 11pm. Closed Sunday.

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This article was first published in City Nomads.